Truffle or Chickpea: Rich and poor dishes!

Truffle or Chickpeas? In the “Granda” Province, people mostly come for the food and wine, but…

We’re now known around the world for our traditional dishes and the precious contribution of the Truffle King. It’s a rich cuisine, highly appreciated by tourists from all over. And we’re proud to be known for such delicacies. But I’d like to share a secret with you (well… not really a secret!) about a humble legume with ancient Piedmontese roots: chickpeas.

Let’s talk about the “Cisrà”: a hearty chickpea soup from Langhe tradition, which has become one of the signature dishes of Dogliani and its Fiera dei Santi (Festival of the Saints).

In the past, Dogliani was a key crossroads thanks to its strategic location. During markets and annual fairs, its streets were filled with customers and merchants who had traveled long distances.

The popularity of cisrà was born on those days. History tells us that starting in the 1600s, members of the Battuti religious brotherhoods offered steaming bowls of chickpea soup to pilgrims and travelers attending the fair—tired and weary, they would rest, take part in religious ceremonies, and stock up on supplies.

The main ingredient was chickpeas, enriched with the famous leeks from Cervere (already well-known back then), garden vegetables, and the poorer cuts of meat: tripe or pork ribs.

The Dogliani Version

has become the most famous, but you’ll find different versions of Cisrà all over Piedmont. Some are more or less spiced, some vegetarian, others enriched with more meat (pork rind is also commonly used).

The word “Cisrà” comes from the dialect term for legumes, the base of this soup that originated as a poor man’s dish from the hills. In the past, the soup was likely made using broken or leftover chickpeas. Whole chickpeas were reserved for the rich, while these “second-rate” chickpeas sustained the farmers, who often grew them between vineyard rows.

Tradition says that on the evening of All Souls’ Day, a plate of this soup should be left on the table in the kitchen—for the spirits of the departed family members, so they can take part in a beloved ritual once more!

This time I’ll share the recipe, so you can try making it at home. And so visiting tourists can enjoy these simple yet wonderful traditional dishes too!

Cisrà – Traditional Piedmontese Chickpea Soup (version with pork ribs)

Ingredients for 4–6 people:

• 250 g dried chickpeas
• 3 pork ribs, halved
• 1 medium potato
• 1 carrot
• 1 celery stalk
• 1 leek (Cervere leek is ideal—sweet and delicate)
• 150–200 g pumpkin or squash (peeled weight)
• 3–4 cabbage leaves
• 1 sprig rosemary
• 2 sage leaves, 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• extra virgin olive oil
• salt and pepper
• ½ tsp baking soda
• rustic country bread, to serve

Soak the chickpeas for 24 hours with ½ tsp baking soda.

Wash and clean all the vegetables. Slice the leek into thin rounds (discarding the tough green parts), and finely chop the celery and carrot. In a terracotta pot, heat a few tablespoons of oil and gently sauté the vegetables for 10–15 minutes, stirring frequently. Add diced potato and pumpkin, drained chickpeas, and shredded cabbage. Tie the herbs together with kitchen twine and add to the pot. Cover with plenty of water, stir in the tomato paste, and cook slowly for 2½ to 3 hours, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, blanch the ribs in boiling water for a few minutes to remove some fat, then drain and add to the soup. Cook for another hour. By the end, the chickpeas should be soft and the meat should fall easily off the bone. Adjust salt and pepper to taste and serve piping hot with toasted slices of rustic bread.

Truffle or chickpeas? Have you made your choice? Are you intrigued by this dish and maybe even tempted to taste some truffle as well? If you’re a fan of Piedmontese food and wine, I invite you to follow me. Leave your contact info and I’ll let you know when new posts come out on the blog that covers these topics!

And if you’re ready to TASTE, then have a look at our selection of food and wine tours. Didn’t find exactly what you’re looking for? No worries! I’ll create a custom trip just for you!